Tucked along the peninsula’s southeast coast, Gyeongju served as capital of the Silla Kingdom for 992 years, from B.C. 57 to A.D. 935. During this time, the city flourished as a center of culture, art and learning. Today, more than 1,000 years since the city held the peninsula’s governmental seat, Gyeongju is known affectionately as the “museum without walls.” The nickname is well earned, seeing that UNESCO has officially deemed the entire municipality of Gyeongju as its own World Cultural Heritage site.
Unsurprisingly, Gyeongju is high on the tourist to-do list among Koreans and foreign tourists alike. Walking through the streets of Gyeongju is akin to walking through time. Meandering around the old city will see you weaving between traditional hanok houses where time has stood still, visiting tiny temples whose owners seem as old as the city itself and catching the last light of day reflected in the royal pond of Wolji — discovering unexpected pockets of life at every turn.
It isn’t just strolling by imperial tarns that brings visitors close to the kings of Korea; so many years later, Gyeongju continues to physically cradle Silla royalty. A multitude of earthen tumuli (tombs) command respect and remind onlookers of the dynastic power in their midst. Yet the kings of ancient Silla were not interested in power alone.
In Silla’s heyday, royalty made a point of steering the capital city, and thus the kingdom, toward Buddhism. During the sixth century, affiliation with Buddhist tradition not only strengthened royal power but also united the people under a common tradition. The lasting heritage of Buddhism can still be experienced today through cultural relics such as Seokguram Grotto. One could argue that the very essence of Korean Buddhist tradition is also found in Gyeongju: Bulguksa temple provides visitors with a glimpse of Korean Buddhism’s unique history that has been preserved locally and recognized globally.
The city and its surroundings are dotted with temples, palaces and artifacts from various points in Korean history. These days, however, it is the residents of Gyeongju who truly define its modern identity; they are friendly, welcoming, down-to-earth people who above all else love a great time. While life seemingly runs at a slower pace in Gyeongju, the city boasts a lively atmosphere that feels far removed from the hectic urban trance of Seoul.
Being hours away from Korea’s current capital by car, bus or train, Gyeongju is perhaps not a destination to check out on a whim. But one great reason to make plans to see the city is the upcoming Flash Light Expeditions’ travel photography workshop. Local expat photographers will host a limited number of participants on an all-inclusive tour of the ancient capital from Oct. 3 to 5.
More info
Flash Light Expeditions workshop, Gyeongju
When: Oct. 3-5
Website: www.flashlightexpeditions.com
